The
Expedition
Part 1 Cape Town to Victoria Falls
Cape Town
The
boat from
England
carrying the Court Treatts landed in Cape Town in the rain on Monday
15th September, 1924. Use of an old warehouse was arranged and the cars
and other goods were taken there from the ship where they were joined
by the rest of the expedition members. Food, fuel and oil were obtained
locally and the vehicles packed. Anything not considered essential was
condemned to a scrap heap. Chaplin Court Treatt, as expedition leader
would drive one of the cars and the other would be shared between Errol
Hinds and Fred Law. On the 23rd September everything was complete and
it was time to depart.
South Africa
(photo
- Tony Courtney collection}
On
the road in South Africa. The mosquito nets over the side
windows are folded down.
In front
of a
large crowd the
expedition set off in the early morning in sunshine. The
first
day was on good roads and the first night was spent camping in some old
stables at Bain's Kloof (Baynes Kloof in Stella Court Treatt's book)
high in the Boland mountains after covering a distance of about 50
miles (80 km).
The next day
involved the first river crossing
when the Breide had to be forded and this involved the first mishap
when one of the cars lost its undershield on a rock and had to be
dragged out by a team of donkeys. After the climb the country leveled
out as they entered the Karroo, a high flat area, but good roads
continued and they were able over the next few days to cover good
distances only handicapped by lots of dust and a shortage of firewood.
In the Karroo there occurred one of those incidents that can
still
happen in Africa today. Mrs Court Treatt decided that her new
trench coat was far too bulky and cumbersome so abandoned it only for
on the next day to be stopped by a man and presented with the same coat
carefully wrapped in brown paper. Kimberley was reached on Thursday 2nd
October with around 650 miles (1000km) now completed.
Two days
after leaving Kimberley the group had their first breakdown when an
axle shaft broke. As they were near the railway a replacement
was
ordered from the spares dump at Johannesburg causing a delay of a week
before it arrived and was fitted. They were then on their way again and
a few days later arrived in Johannesburg to be met by a welcoming party
from the local Automobile Club. After a short break to re-organise the
packing and obtain some fresh provision they were off again on Saturday
October 25 and into the farming country of the Northern Transvaal. On 2
November they crossed the nearly dry Limpopo river and entered Southern
Rhodesia (Zimbabwe). Border crossings merit no mention in the book so
formalities in those days must have been minimal to non existent.
Southern
Rhodesia (Zimbabwe)
The
entry
into Matabeleland seems to have caused excitement for here
they
entered big game country and each night a hunting expedition seems to
have been mounted though without "success" until Thomas Glover managed
to shoot a hippo the meat of which was given to the local people. The
first lion was spotted on November 5 but the excitement was partly
overshadowed by the party running out of cigarettes. The
weather was changeable with some rain, a sign that the rainy season was
approaching, earlier than expected. The ruins of Great Zimbabwe were
reached on November
12th and a short break was taken there to check over the vehicles and
sort
and mend clothing and camping equipment. Setting off again they headed
for Victoria (Masvingo) on good roads and in spite of getting stuck in
the mud once, a portent of what was to come, carried on to Bulawayo
which they reached on Tuesday November 25th. They had decided
that they would camp whenever possible so shunned the hotels of
Bulawayo and settled on the showground a few miles out where they
stayed for some time to, among other things, rebuild the back axle on
the second car and have a trailer built. While camped
the rains continued heavily just as they were to attempt a
part of the route that had never been traversed by a motor car.
Stuck on the road
This
would be
their last treat for a
while as to save more weight the food was cut down and from now on it
was to be Bovril, bully beef, salt, tea and coffee, meal and dried
fruit. To reduce the
weight
of the vehicles further the roof sections and the new trailer were
abandoned at
Nyamandhlovu 30 miles (50km) north west of Bulawayo on December 28th.
The vehicles were now covered by tarpaulins which did not keep the
continuous downpours out and everything was
soaked.
The next 380
miles to Victoria Fall, following roughly the route
of the railway, would take four months.
Just north of Bulawayo they met the mud in serious quantities
and started a routine of traveling a few yards, sinking in, digging
out and repeating the process. A good day would mean
traveling six miles. It rained continuously soaking
everything and was also so humid that nothing dried in spite of the
heat. Camping was a miserable experience. Christmas was
celebrated with a hot meal, a cake,
plum pudding with flaming brandy and champagne drunk from tin mugs, all
in the rain under a soaking tent.
The Gwaai
(Gwayi) river was reached on January 2nd 1925 and it was in flood and
had steep inclines down to it and out the far side. The crossing was
attempted on the morning of the 3rd. The first car was driven down and
got stuck leaning at a precarious angle.
Fortunately, at
the far side was a settler with a span of oxen and these were borrowed
to pull the car back out and allow a second attempt. It was
also
discovered that they were attempting to cross on top of a submerged dam
and so only had a narrow path to find on the river bed.
Crossing
the Gwaai
River
Beyond
the river they tried abandoning the road and with a local guide tried
heading across country on
higher ground which meant clearing a track through the bush which
reduced progress to below walking pace but the railway settlement of
Gwaai (Gwayi) was eventually reached on January 8th. Here, camped not
far
from the railway line they could watch the Victoria Falls Mail train
pass with a glimpse of the passengers dining at tables covered in
spotless linen.
After
Gwaai they had the choice of
continuing
alongside the railway or heading off to a place called Jowitt's Farm
and chose the latter as it was on higher ground. The ascent was made
easily under their own power and good progress was made until after 15
miles and after about 3 hours they
reached the marshland of the Impindo.
The marsh or vlei was about a mile and a half across, flooded and full
of leeches and to get across they had to pile
logs under the wheels, but even with this the cars constantly sank into
the mud.
On
the
20th
January, running short of food and fuel they reached the farm of a Mr
Chatham and took the opportunity to rest and do some
washing. After a few days they were off again and back into the bogs
then on 27 January they regained the railway at Dett (Dete).

More mud
In
spite of reports that
the road from Dett
to
Wankie (Hwange) was good
and was in theory possible to cover in a day, it actually
took a month. The track through the bush was deep mud again and now
there were also many small rivers to cross. Oxen had to be hired to
pull them out on several occasions but eventually travel got totally
impossible so they camped up for three weeks and wait for conditions to
improve. The frustration must have been very great as they could get
messages to Wankie and even received newspapers and posted letters but
the ground was so bad that a mile a day with the cars was good
progress. Oxen and block and tackle to haul the cars were
used as much as engine power. The coal mining centre of
Wankie was eventually reached on the 2nd March.
They
remained in Wankie for around ten days
enjoying the
facilities of
the club and allowing Thomas Glover to visit the hospital for treatment
to an abscess on his leg. The hospital was visited again when
Errol broke his arm when crank starting one of the cars and it was
decided that he would stay there while it set and re-join the party at
Victoria Falls by catching a train.
They
had good weather
during their rest stop but on setting off again on March 20th the rains
also re-commenced and it was back to digging through the mud.
In an attempt to find better ground they again left the
"road" and headed uphill into the bush and now had to make a pathway
which involved, with the help of local workers, cutting down up to a
hundred trees a day and removing the stumps. A few days rest
were spent at the farm of a Mr Robbins before continuing over a
slightly better road and over the Dekka river to to another farm
belonging to Mr Crewe with the cars having to be dragged by oxen the
last few miles. After two days they continued again with the help of
oxen to the next farm of Mr Cumming, a big game hunter. This was near
Matetsi where one of the fuel and spares dumps was and a wagon pulled
by sixteen oxen was sent for fuel.
It was off again on the 20th April and although the worst of
the rains
was over the road was still hard going but one day a cloud could be
seen on the horizon and Victoria Falls was in sight and reached on
Monday 27th April 1925.
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